Day 3
Day 3
Locorontondo and Ostuni
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The next day we headed out to Locorotondo, a circular city, part of Itria valley. This small town was a short, 20 minutes’ drive from Alberobello, making it our morning stop. Most buildings were whitewashed, and reminded of Cyclades, Greece, and some were painted in appealing pastels. The place has a charming, soft vibe.
The centro storico, was busy but not with tourists. The town has a lovely non-touristy ambience, with boutique shops and ample eateries. We sat at the main square, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and indulged in an authentic, Italian pizza, which dripped of olive oil, had hardly any toppings save some zucchini and basil, and no cheese. It was soooo good! Also perfect place for a coffee break or some pottery finds.
Next we headed for the view of Itria valley from the popular belvedere point, which is simply a 5 minutes’ walk from the main piazza itself.
It is simply stretches and stretches of olive groves, farmlands and rolling hills, merging into the horizon. Dotted with trulli and stone walls, this countryside view is unmissable!
The belvedere is popular among tourists, especially at sunset time. The view from the hill and its easy accessibility, makes this a great panoramic spot to enjoy the Itria valley landscape.
Locorotondo, Cisternino and Martina Franca together make up the Itria valley, so it is a good idea to visit at least one (or all of them) on your trip to Puglia.
Post Lunch, we headed out to Ostuni, another beautiful town further out.
Visible from a distance, this stunning white city on a hilltop is fascinating, with a church noticeable atop the pinnacle. An ornate gated entrance makes it look like a gigantic fort.
The Corso Vittorio Emmanuel II viewpoint, truly offers unbeatable view of the medieval city.
On the inside, the city is a labyrinth of one pretty street after another dotted with beautiful cafes and boutique shops.
On this white expanse, every colour pops, be it in the form of brightly painted doors in blue and green, or bougainvillea climbers, or the chilli plants on café tables. Needless to say it is a photographer’s delight.
Pottery, ceramics, coral printed clothing, and souvenir shops – there’s a lot to look around. Many café patios offer panoramic sea views which is why they are always packed with people sitting on chairs, parapets and stairs alike, getting washed under the golden light, with drinks in their hands, enjoying the view. Bar Perso is a cute one, but then again, there are so many!
Cathedral Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta is on a high point, and all streets are cobbled so comfortable shoes are advisable to enjoy this very walkable town.
The gothic-styled cathedral certainly leaves an impression – with its baroque charm, beautifully carved, curved facades on its either sides, and a huge rose window in the center. Opposite to it is the ornate bridge, Arco Scoppa, connecting the buildings on each side. It reminded me of the Bridge of Sighs. The piazza was lively, packed with more cafes and crowds (A perfect place to explore more if you are staying in Ostuni for longer.)
We were lured by the shiny white Tuk-Tuks and the happy people in them. And so we hopped in on one and the guide maneuvered it through the crowds and took us through his Città Bianca. Over the course of half an hour, he showed beautiful spots and narrow passageways, all the while stopping and greeting people. He later took us around the city wall, encircling the old town. The vista overlooking the sea and olive orchards, my hair flapping in the breeze while Volare played in the tuk-tuk - the experience felt absolute. PRO TIP - Dont book these in advance as they are much costlier on sites. You can easily get one on the day outside the parking and in the city squares.
When in Ostuni, don’t miss out dining in a traditional Masseria. We opted for one 15 min drive from Ostuni. They are a great option for a one night stay as well. However if you are not staying then highly recommend taking a taxi here since wine here is free flowing and you wouldn’t want to drive after.
We went to Masseria Il Frantoio, a beautiful farmhouse with generous hosts. A crown, a hand and three stars adorned the coat of arms at the entrance arch, and horseshoes decorated the entry way. The staff obliged us with the tour of the grounds – the orchards, the old olive trees that are government protected, and beautiful gardens. They also showed us around the house – a massive storage, old kitchen, hosting room with framed pictures of famous visitors, and a small church that the lady of the house commissioned. It is a very authentic Italian experience and i'd recommend it in a heartbeat!
The evening was delightful. Don’t expect a menu, though they cater to dietary requirements upon request. They serve a home-cooked, 6 or 8 course dinner, made entirely from their seasonal produce complete with wine pairings. They also explain all their dishes in detail, making the experience more memorable.
Soon you’ll find everyone talking loudly, sated and inebriated, and Nonna’s kitchen as they call it, indeed becomes a family room, with everyone laughing and mingling into the night.
So, here’s a roundup of a perfect day in Ostuni –
· Begin in Piazza della Libertà, the central square of Ostuni
· Explore the Centro Storico (Historic Center)
· Wander through the labyrinth of narrow streets, staircases, and alleyways that make up this charming medieval town
· See Porta San Demetrio and Porta Nova, the ancient gates of the town
· Visit Ostuni Cathedral
· Visit Diocesan Museum if you want to know more about the town's religious and cultural heritage
· Visit the Column of Sant’Oronzo, a grand statue dedicated to Saint Oronzo, Ostuni’s patron saint, who is believed to have saved the town from the plague in the 17th century by the use of yes, whitewash!
· Enjoy the sunset from any panoramic viewpoint, there are many
· Try gelato in Gelateria Borgo Antico under the Arco Scoppa
· Dine at a Masseria
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