Day 4

Matera

The day after, we headed out to Matera. It is an hour and a half drive from Alberobello, and parking is tricky once you enter the old city. So it is best to park a bit outside and walk the area to the main piazzas.

Matera truly looks like a pre-historic city of a far-removed civilization. The architecture fascinates, more so the history. On one side of the Piazza San Pietro Caveoso you can see the abandoned cave dwellings, reminders of Matera’s intriguing past. The prehistoric natural caves date back to over 10,000 years ago when they were first carved into the soft limestone characteristic of the region by people who used them for shelter, and later permanent dwellings.

On the other side you can see Sassi Caveoso and Sassi Barisano, replete with beautiful facades and terraces. The carved architecture lends the terrain its unique appearance. A unique example of preserved human history, Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is flocked by tourists, history and archaeology enthusiasts, photographers and artists alike. Not to forget movie buffs, since a major sequence of The Passion of the Christ and No Time to Die was shot here.

We had booked an afternoon tour – Viator Discover Matera, the ancient city - that starts at Piazza San Pietro Caveoso.

This square is home to the Church of San Pietro Caveoso, a baroque-style church built in the 13th century, carved partly into the rock, in keeping with Matera’s tradition of rupestrian (rock-cut) architecture.

Before our tour began, we sat down for lunch at Keiv Restaurant which has an open terrace, and is located right at the Piazza.

We had Risotto and Sea Bass, alongside Primitivo wine, and Aperol respectively, and both the dishes were scrumptious.

Would highly recommend the walking tour we took - a deep dive into the history of the city along with a look at many interesting details on the tour that you would miss by yourself.

The tour through the Sassis was spellbinding and extremely insightful. The amalgamation of the ancient and the modern is distinctly noticeable, lending the place great character. The busy, modern square lined with cars seems almost incongruous juxtaposed with what lies underneath - Palombaro Lungo, the city’s historic, manmade underground cistern, another must visit.

Countless flight of stairs in a maze-like city open up secrets and new landscapes at every turn. You can easily spend a day or two here in Matera. Many people opt for a night in these traditional cave dwellings but we couldn’t fit it in as we didn’t want to change so many accommodations.

Once our tour ended, we found ourselves at the Piazza Giovanni Pascoli which is a beautiful square with many landmarks to visit. But nothing beats the view from the Belvedere here.

As the sun sets, the stone city is washed by the golden light that travels from the top to the foot of the hill. If you want to enjoy this view for longer, we recommend sitting for a drink in the Terrazza Cavaliere which offers the same view of Matera.

In the dark, this old city glows resplendently in the light of yellow lamps that outline its various folds. The church at the zenith shines brighter than the rest. The uniformity in the city’s visage feels like a homage to the communal sentiment that the cave-dwellers of Matera took pride in. Would recommend to simply sit and soak in the phantasmagorical view of Matera after dark. It is a must if you are in Matera!

Seated right in the middle of ancient history, we indulged all our senses in this moment, a fitting end to our Puglian adventure.

Here’s a one day plan for Matera –

Morning

· Breakfast in Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the central square of Matera.

· Explore the Sassi District

Start with Sasso Barisano: This area is more restored and features a mix of shops, galleries, and residences. Then move to Sassi Caveoso (more rustic side of Matera). Visit Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario, a recreated traditional cave dwelling that offers a glimpse into what life was like for Matera’s residents before the Sassi were abandoned in the 1950s.

Alternatively go for a historical tour which delves deeper into the History of Matera.

Afternoon

· Lunch at Keiv (on the square) or go for Ristorante Francesca, located in a cave setting, offering Puglian and Basilicata cuisine.

· Visit the Rupestrian Churches like Santa Maria di Idris and San Pietro Barisano

· Visit the Palombaro Lungo (Underground Cistern)

Evening

· Explore the Murgia Plateau and Belvedere – it is a 40 min hike or a short shuttle.

· Visit the Crypt of Original Sin

· Aperitivo with a View at Terrazza Cavaliere

· Dinner (La Nicchia Nel Sasso is lovely!) and a final evening walk through the Sassi

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