Day 1
Hello Polignano
Hello Polignano
The colours transform between turquoise, cerulean, aqua, and teal, as we watch the waters, standing in our balcony sipping the famed Italian coffee. It’s only 8, so the beach is not teeming with crowds as it would be in a few hours. I was happy with this view of the Adriatic Sea, the limestone cliffs, and the horseshoe bend of the beach –glad that I booked a balcony room with sea-view, and in good time. Polignano a Mare can be expensive this time of the year if you don’t book in advance. After all, everyone wants a taste of the sun and the sand while sipping the region’s bold and juicy wines which are so much cheaper locally than back home. We stayed for two nights at AQUAMAREA hotel and particularly loved the view from our balcony, and the breakfast café terrace.
My Partner and I drove here in a rented car from Bari Airport. A car to travel in Puglia is a good idea since the traffic is not bad and you can see more places conveniently.
Last night we had dinner at Specchia Sant’Oronzo. The place was beautiful, a little further out from the main squares though. We had a lovely meal of fresh Swordfish and burnt wheat orecchiette and sipped on the delectable Susumaniello wine recommended by the waiting staff.
In the day light, the buildings, whitewashed in a cream-yellow stain, are a palette of white and sepia tones. A number of shops dotted around the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II sell vibrantly coloured ceramic balloons; they say it represents good luck (and thus make perfect souvenirs).
Passing the arc Arco Marchesale, we headed to the Lama Monachile beach. After a refreshing dip, we hiked along the coastline to Calaponte Marina, passing by small beach spots completely covered with people lazing on the white and blue beach beds. There are a number of boat cruises that run from here. We loved the Speedboat Cruise to Caves with Aperitif –– it’s not crowded, and you can relax and enjoy some light white wine while looking at the Polignano’s caves and coves.
The boat ride lasts around 3 good hours. We went as far as Grotta di Cala Incina before the boat headed back. The skipper showed us many beautiful caves from the inside, and rock formations that resembled animal and human faces. When we reached the view of the five star hotel Grotta Palazzese, the engine stopped revving. This is where you can take a short, cool swim in the clear water. The skipper recommended the restaurant whole-heartedly – and I mentally patted my back as I had reservations for dinner here.
On our walk back from the boat tour, we stopped by the open-armed sculpture of Domenico Modugno, the Italian singer and politician, on the eponymous Lungomare. It had a big tour group imitating his pose. We soaked the dramatic sea views from the Belvedere view here and found ourselves at the inviting promenade of Meraviglioso Osteria restaurant where we had a lovely lunch and a lovelier tiramisu (which I highly recommend!). We wandered around countless alleys and squares, following our feet, counting the bougainvillea porches and Apulian Pumi at the corners of balconies.
In the evening, we headed out to Grotta Palazzese for dinner. The dramatic caves and the sea view is something else, and the positioning of the tables gives a heady feeling of being suspended on water. The dark waters glisten under the yellow lights of the restaurant and the horizon is visible under the moonlight. The tables are set at a distance good enough to make the moment private, adding to the romantic setting.
It is a splurge but worth it, especially if you are celebrating an occasion.
We went for different menus – Istinto and VerdeMare, and we were awestruck by the quality of the meals. Their food looks like poetry on plate. His truffle scallop was flavourful, and his raviolo cacio e pepe with red prawn and caviar was divine. To top it, his sea bass was so good that he had to fight me for it. And never have I been happier with a vegan meal. The beetroot risotto was marvelous, and their take on fava bean and chicory is eclectic. All this while we were fighting the urge to not get full on the different textured and flavoured breadsticks, in the pauses between each plate. The wine was light and went down easily, and the salty breeze accentuated the flavours of the food. By the time our desserts arrived, we were so full! The tiramisu was the only plate that underwhelmed but the banana, salted caramel and popcorn desert made up for it. The dinner was accompanied by late night live music, and obviously it was the serenade of saxophones.
Later that night we strolled about the Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi and Centro Storico.
Here's a round up of 1 day in Polignano A Mare –
Morning
· Start your day with a breakfast with sea view and enjoy Italian coffee and pasticciotto, a local pastry filled with custard. Some hotels have a stunning sea side view, or you can try Caffè dei Serafini.
· Stroll through the Centro Storico (Old Town), and explore Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II and Chiesa Matrice di Santa Maria Assunta
Midday
· Explore Lama Monachile, also known as Cala Porto beach. Bring swimwear and take a quick dip in the crystal-clear waters, especially during warmer months.
· Visit the Domenico Modugno Statue and discover Polignano's iconic panoramic viewpoints Terrazza Domenico Modugno
· Lunch at a Seaside Restaurant – we recommend Meraviglioso Osteria, a Michelin star restaurant, right next to the Domenico Modugno statue
Afternoon
· Walk the Coastal Path (Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo)
· Boat Tour to Explore the Sea Caves (lasts for around 3 hours –for example 2-5 pm would be a good slot)
Evening
· Dine at Grotta Palazzese, the natural cave restaurant or opt for dinner at Antiche Mura or Specchia Sant’Oronzo. PRO TRIP - Even if you don’t dine at Grotta Palazzese, you can enjoy a drink in the lounge area, surrounded by the unique cave setting and incredible views of the sea, before heading out for your dinner.
· Take one last evening stroll through the old town, which becomes especially enchanting at night when the whitewashed buildings are softly illuminated.